| The Caren Range
Old-Growth Forest is documented as the oldest closed-canopy temperate
rain forest in Canada. These mountains form the backbone of the Sechelt
Peninsula. At an elevation ranging from 2,500 to 4,000 feet, the Caren
Range is blessed with 2,000-year-old Yellow Cedar giants, pristine
wetlands and numerous fish-bearing lakes.
The forest contains a species mix of yellow cedar, mountain hemlock
and balsam, with the yellow cedars being the greatest in age. The
forest, at an elevation of about 1,000 metres, is essentially a
'cloud forest', with many fog-shrouded days and a long season of
snow cover. This produces a spongy, wet, forest floor with beautiful
moss gardens and ancient cedars festooned with moss and lichen.
The Caren Range
is also famous for its breeding colony of Marbled Murrelets, a starling-sized,
enigmatic seabird that only nests in old-growth forests. The first
and second active nests of the species ever discovered in Canada
were on the Caren Range (1993 and 1994). The
marbled murrelet's numbers are in as precipitous a decline as the
old-growth western hemlock on which the drab little bird depends.
Although most
murrelets nest in cliffs and rock walls, the marbled murrelet, having
evolved beside the majestic, ramrod-straight, temperate old-growth
forest, lay their eggs on the hemlocks' broad, moss-draped limbs.
The Marbled Murrelets
can be observed flying into their nesting territory for up to two
hours after first light (4.30am - 6.30am in June and July). The
dawn chorus of Hermit Thrushes and Varied Thrushes is another excellent
reason to make an early visit, or to camp overnight on the Caren.
Paul
Jones of Friends of Caren inspects the yellow cedar
stump. Photo: Dr. John Field
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Some of the oldest
yellow cedar and western hemlock in western Canada grow in the Caren
Range. A bittersweet victory was gained here when the last of the
great Caren forest was recently granted protection, but not before
some of the oldest trees in Canada were logged. A stump of a yellow
cedar yielded 1,835 growth rings, meaning that it was Canada's oldest
tree - and a seedling back in 160 AD!
In June 1991
Friends of Caren was formed by a group of people dedicated to the
idea of creating a shore-to-summit park surrounding the Caren Range
on the Sechelt Peninsula.
The Friends
of Caren group found Canada’s first active nest of the threatened
Marbled Murrelet, they spent countless hours taking more than 3,500
visitors to see the proposed park area, and they carried out the
necessary work to prove that these forests contained Canada’s oldest
trees.
Only a small
fragment of the original old-growth forest was saved, when Spipiyus
Provincial Park was created on the upper reaches of the Caren
Range in 1999, but what a treasure it is, thanks to the many volunteers
and supporters who helped create Spipiyus Provincial Park. The health
of the Caren subalpine ecosystem depends upon the connecting forest
land which extends down to Sechelt Inlet and Pender Harbour. The
Friends of Caren group continues its quest for this surrounding
area to be added to the park to create a shore-to summit park with
a minimum of 8,000 hectares.
Sechelt
Inlets Marine Provincial Recreation Area is a narrow, fjordlike
environment where old-growth forest plummets down the sides of the
Caren Range mountains to the ocean (Sechelt Inlet). Beaches are
limited, and where they do occur you'll find small park sites suited
for rest stops or overnighting - used frequently mainly by kayakers.
One of the
most ambitious mountain-bike trail projects, the 20-mile (33-km)
Suncoaster Trail, opened in the mid-1990s. At present, it extends
between Homesite Creek, near Halfmoon Bay, through the foothills
of the Caren Range to Klein Lake near Earls Cove. Along the way,
it passes abandoned rail lines, BC Hydro service roads, old-growth
forests, and rocky promontories, and near its northern terminus
has incredible views of Ruby and Sakinaw Lakes. Although mostly
gravelled singletrack, the trail follows Hwy 101 for short distances
where necessary. The shoulders on the highway have been broadened
to comfortably accommodate cyclists in these places. Eventually,
the trail will extend to Langdale. One of the most scenic spots
is beside a waterfall where a 68-foot (21-m) bridge spans Sakinaw
Creek. For more information, contact the Suncoast Trails Society,
(604) 883-2974.
You'll have
to drive a long way through open hillsides before you reach the
shade of the park, but the tranquillity you'll experience there
will be a grand reward. Take Highway 101 for 11 kilometres north
of Sechelt. At the bottom of the long downhill stretch just before
Halfmoon Bay, 8 miles (13 km) north of Sechelt, turn east onto paved
Trout Lake Road, marked by a Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre sign.
Drive a farther 8 miles (13 km) up what soon turns into the Caren
Mainline Forest Road and fork left at the main junction at kilometre
12.
The ancient
stand of trees begins at about kilometre 15, with the road running
through the stand for about 2 kilometres. The best place to access
the forest is to walk downslope 200 metres before the next clearcut.
There is no trail, and little walking is required.
Hiking: Guide and Map: The Trails of The Lower Sunshine Coast
is produced by the Sunshine Coast Forest District, and is available
at Visitor Centres.
Persistent destruction threatens the Caren Range. Pan Pacific Aggregates
began exploratory mine work among the headwater lakes of Carlson
Creek, in the heart of what is known as the Southern Caren Range.
This was included in an area proposed for park status in 1991 by
the Western Canada Wilderness Committee. Pan Pacific has submitted
proposals for two massive open-pit aggregate and limestone quarries
encompassing several square kilometers of mid-elevation wilderness
that currently support forests, streams, wetlands and lakes.
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